A diving light is not just for scuba diving at night. While not as essential as say a dive knife or computer for daytime diving it is a good idea to always have one, even if its just a small light to keep in your BCD pocket.
If you plan on diving wrecks, or cave diving then your choice of dive light is much more critical than if you just want to take a look back into a crevice to see what might be hiding…
- Vicdozia High Power Waterproof LED (For Underwater Photography)
- SecurityIng 1000 XM-L2 LED Diving Flashlight (Secondary/Backup)
- Princeton TEC MaxBright LED 550 Dive Light (Primary Dive Light)
- Light and Motion Sola Dive Light 800 (Underwater Photography or Primary)
- Underwater Kinetics C8 eLED Dive Light (Primary Dive Light)
Best Dive Lights
Dive Light Reviews
This dive light is specifically designed for your GoPro or similar camera. The camera is guaranteed waterproof down to 130 ft (40 meters) so you will not have any issues with it flooding.
Speaking of battery life, it is excellent, in high power mode of 300 Lumens, you get 80 minutes, in low power mode of 80 Lumens of you get about 6 hours of battery life.
Your GoPro camera clamps directly on top of the light with the standard bracket so no extras are needed but you will most likely want to buy a pistol grip type grip to attach the camera and light to.
If you have a diving mask with a built in mount then you don’t need anything else.
Personally I prefer to hold it in my hand because its so much easier to control and you don’t have any issues with your bubbles blocking your view. Its pretty annoying when that happens.
It has a rechargeable battery lithium Ion battery that uses a USB cable to charge, it takes about 4.5 hours to fully charge. This is an excellent dive light that is bargain priced if you plan on using a GoPro or similar camera.
I would put the SecurityIng dive light as a perfect secondary or backup dive light. This dive torch has a Cree XM-L2 LED rated at 1000 Lumens. Honestly, I don’t think it actually is 1000 Lumens but it is bright! The SecurityIng is one of the brightest dive lights available.
This dive light is rated to 150 feet (45 meters) and made from aviation quality aluminum alloy built to military specifications so this is a quality product.
This is a simple operation light, just on or off, there are no other modes. It is powered by 3 C size batteries, you can use rechargeable batteries but just make sure you do not use a battery that goes over 4.5volts or you will fry the LED and it will not be covered under warranty (1 year).
I put the Princeton TEC in the primary class of diving light and one best primary dive lights on the market. This is a larger size light with a pistol grip so its comfortable to carry and handle for long periods of time.
The trigger switch is large enough to use with gloves and features a momentary on with a half pull and constant on with a full pull of the trigger.
It has a true 550 Lumens of illumination unlike other dive lights that claim more but are really not as bright as they say. It operates on 4 C size batteries and will last an incredible 24 hours! The beam quality is excellent, tight and while providing a nice spread.
I used it lobster diving and for wreck diving and it worked perfect for both. In my opinion this is the best dive light for the money and at a bargain price.
The Sola Dive light 800 is a hybrid dive light that can function as a primary dive light OR be used for underwater photography. The wide beam (60 degree width) at 800 lumens is an exceptional light for photography providing a wide, consistent light pattern.
It has a mounting system that allows you to strap it on your wrist securely, with a better design than most other dive lights I have seen. This gives you both hands free to hold a camera, look at your gauges etc.
If you don’t want to use the strap, you can take it off and use it pistol grip style, giving you flexibility in how you use it.
The light is rated to over 300 feet (100 meters) and features a regulated output, meaning that it doesn’t dim as you use it so its maintains roughly the same light output for the life of the battery charge.
The Sola 800 has display that shows battery status and allows you to easily change power settings.
There is an option camera tray you can purchase that mounts on the bottom of the dive light for more convenient operation of the camera.The Sola 800 is made in the USA with a 2 year warranty making this light a solid option.
Underwater Kinectics is well known in the diving community for making quality diving equipment. The C8 eLED dive light is made to be a primary dive light. It offers a TRUE 1200 lumens on high power unlike some dive lights that claim more lumens but really are not.
In high power setting it will give you a solid 3 hours of battery life with the rechargeable battery. In low power mode, 560 lumens, battery life improves to 5 hours.
The C8 has a regulated power output so it gives a consistent beam strength for the length of the battery charge. The rechargeable battery is airline safe is designed to last 10 years with normal use.
Being this is designed as a primary dive light, it works in spot light mode only and with UK’s patented 2 eLed optics system, it puts 90% of the available light into the center of the beam. This virtually eliminates backscatter and glare.
Since the light is so concentrated the range is an impressive 500 feet or 150 meters. With the long range, this might be the best dive light for spearfishing you will find.
The tough, composite body can withstand a lot of abuse, and is rated to last 20 years of salt water exposure! The C8 dive light polymer body is rated to a depth of 500 feet. In my opinion, this is the best LED dive light in its price range. The UK C8 eLED light is made in the USA and makes a excellent choice as a primary dive light.
How To Choose A Dive Light (Torch)
There are several thing you need to think about before buying a dive torch. Keep in mind there is no best dive light, each light has its best purpose. So with that…
What Are You Going Use It For?
Daytime Dives: If you just want it for the occasional use of maybe looking back into some crevices to see a lobster, crab or some fish that are hiding then your choice is not that critical. Almost any small dive light like the xxxx will do.
Night Diving: Here battery life comes into play, obviously the longer the better. But also important with night diving is a dive light that has a wider, brighter beam so you just don’t have “tunnel vision”. Especially if you have any anxiety about being in the dark, (which I do) I prefer a wider beam, but that’s just me.
Photography/Video: Just get a GoPro or underwater camera and looking to try it out? The brightness and battery length is not as critical here but you do want a wide and consistent beam. You don’t want dive flashlight here, but a dive light specifically made for videography or photography.
Cave/Tech Diving: When cave or technical diving you don’t necessarily want a wide beam but more of a bright narrow beam that allows you so see at a distance and can cut through murky water without a blinding effect like when you have on your high beams in a fog bank. Here reliability and battery life are also critically important.
As was discussed above, what you plan on using the dive torch for will determine what the beam width should be. If its just for occasional looking for a hiding fish, a narrow dimmer beam is fine. A wide beam is best for night diving while in general a narrow, brighter beam is best for cave diving.
Primary: Your primary dive light can be used for daytime or night dives and will tend to be larger, with more battery capacity. It should be a durable light that can withstand the rigors of diving and being tossed in a dive bag. They can have either a disposable or rechargeable battery but ideally you would want a rechargeable.
Your primary dive light should feature either a pistol grip or a lantern grip for a comfortable grip than a flashlight type light. You need long battery life, and a brighter, narrower beam.
Secondary or Backup Dive Light: Your just going to want a smaller, inexpensive light. Something that fits in a BCD pocket that is ideal for looking under a ledge or crevice for some sea critter.
Type of Battery
Alkaline: Your typical disposable AA or AAA battery you can buy almost anywhere. These are best for your secondary dive light where battery length is not as critical.
Lithium Ion: Your common rechargeable battery found in most electronics nowadays. There feature decent battery life, with a quick recharge time.
LiMn: This battery is considered the best battery for a dive light. It is typically found in higher quality dive lights and features similar characteristics is Lithium Ion in that they charge quickly but LiMn is considered to have better discharge characteristics and keeps a charge longer.
Type of Bulb
Xenon: Not that common anymore because they are not as bright as an LED or HID light and they have a higher drain per Lumen than a LED light so they use up your battery faster. Their primary use now is in photography lights because they give a “warmer” and more consistent light than does a LED light. Some people claim they cut through murkier water better than an LED but that is subjective.
LED: These lights are a silicon chip as its light source and are the most common dive light source now due to its characteristics of providing good battery life with a powerful, bright beam of light. They light instantly unlike a HID bulb.
HID: Not as well known, the High Intensity Discharge light bulb gets its light from capsule of gas where the light comes from a “arc” discharge between two closely spaced electrodes.
They provide a high intensity light but they require 15-20 seconds to light light to full power and if you turn it off you will need to wait 5-10 seconds for it to cool before you turn it back on. While HID lights were the preferred choice for dive lights, LED has rapidly caught up with them for light quality.